The Wholesale Customers LVMH Keeps FiringWide moat

LVMH (MC) — moat facet

For most consumer companies retailers are customers to cultivate; for LVMH they are a channel to minimise.

For most consumer companies, retailers are customers to be cultivated. For LVMH they are a channel to be minimised. The group has spent two decades shifting from wholesale — department stores, multi-brand boutiques, duty-free operators — toward stores it owns and controls entirely1.

Directly operated stores by business group, end-2024Fashion & Leather2,300+Sephora2,175Watches & Jewelry958Perfumes & Cosm.700+LVMH 2024 Universal Registration Document
Beauty still sells mostly through other people's shops; fashion, almost entirely through its own.

The reasoning follows directly from the moat. A department store decides where the product sits, what it sits next to, whether it is discounted, and how the brand is presented. None of those decisions can be delegated by a company whose asset is desirability. Owning the store means owning the price, the environment, the inventory and the customer relationship — which is the argument the Controlling Distribution pages make.

The cost is capital and operating leverage. Thousands of owned stores mean rent and staff that do not fall when sales do, which is why luxury margins compress so quickly in a downturn. A wholesale model would have transferred that risk to someone else in exchange for control LVMH is unwilling to give up.

Watch the wholesale share of revenue and DFS travel-retail commentary. The direction has been one-way for twenty years; any reversal would signal that LVMH needs volume badly enough to accept distribution it cannot control, which would be a meaningful change in how the company thinks about its brands.

Moat trajectory: Widening

The two-decade shift from wholesale toward owned retail continued, and it is the right trade for a company whose asset is desirability: owning the store means owning the price, the environment and the customer relationship. The cost is operating leverage that works brutally in reverse, which is exactly what compressed margins in the downturn.

The number that tests this moat
Reported
Perfumes & Cosmetics organic growth
0% in H1 2026 and in 2025

Beauty is where LVMH still relies most on other retailers, and the group describes its approach there as highly selective. Flat revenue is the cost of cutting doors; growth returning with fewer wholesale accounts would show the approach paying off.

Source: LVMH H1 2026 results ↗
References
  1. ReportedLVMH's strategy has shifted distribution from wholesale toward stores it owns and controls.
    LVMH FY2025 annual results — revenue ~€80.8B, group share of net profit ~€10.9B, both down from the 2023 peaks on the China-led luxury slowdown — FY2025 · publ. January 2026 · source ↗
Sources
Generated September 23, 2026